Combination Cnc Machine And 3d Printer



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Combination CNC Machine and 3D Printer




taulman I am a Systems Engineer with a background in electronics, optics, mechanical designs, chemistry, plastic injection molding and plastic die tooling.


How to make your own 2D CNC machine that converts into a 3D Printer and back to a CNC machine in less than an hour. Costing less than a CNC machine or 3D printer! ($1,000.00) In addition, the design will go further than the traditional 3D printer printing ABS/PLA, and move forward to printing with new materials such as Nylon, Nylon6, Other Nylon polymers, Acrylic and PET. As a sample of the unique new properties of just one of these new materials, Here is a 3D Print of a Childs NYLON Prosthetic Insole on the 2BEIGH3 3D Printer.

With the 3D Printer configuration of the 2BEIGH3, you will be able to print parts that meet much higher standards for strength, flexibility and pliability. You will be able to design parts that can take 100's of severe strikes from a sledge hammer and still have a soft velvet like texture. You will be able to print parts that are almost equal to Factory Die Extrusions. And in some cases, parts that can not be Die extruded due to complexity. The term "delamination" will cease to be a concern. Nylon and it's derivative polymers have some great features that can be modified with fill density and layer height. Imagine being able to print a permanent coffee filter, bearings that need no lubrication, pliable IPhone cases, extremely tough bands that are so flexible you can tie them in a knot and they'll still support 200lbs! Here are some samples! My hope is that people use this guide to bring their designs and projects to tangible parts and objects as paper and CAD designs are great, but unproven, till built. My goal for this guide is to take the mystery out of both CNC and 3D printing in such a way as to eliminate that….”its all to overwhelming” feeling or thought. Because there are several other specific machine designs out there, both CNC and 3D Printer, please refer to this machine as the "2BEIGH3" or "2 by 3" as I will within this guide.

Step 1Goals and Approach


As I read through the 2D and 3D blogs and sites, it’s obvious that people with 2D want a 3D and people with a 3D want to try and convert it to a 2D. They are both limited because

their machines were meant for a specific action. While CNC machines work with large X-Y lateral forces (cutting bits) they are very powerful but move very slow and 3D printers have almost no lateral force requirement (other than the platform) and move very fast. Because neither machine needs a fast “Z” axis, the 2BEIGH3 is designed to allow you to swap out the X-Y sections, recalibrate and back to cutting or printing in less than an hour. Actually, my 2BEIGH3 takes 15 min including calibration. The process is going to be that we build a machine, to make a better machine to then build a slightly different machine. And while that seems complicated, it’s mostly nuts and bolts. I will try to specifically show you how to create or build the parts you need and where appropriate, provide detailed drawings and CAD files. You’ll see that I have borrowed some ideas from others here on the Instructables web site, and if I forget to mention an already published detail, please let me know and I’ll update. So before we get started, what exactly does a 2BEIGH3 look like?

Step 2Base Structure reference


As you can see the 2BEIGH3 starts out as a scaled up version of Tom McWire’s “Easy to Build Desk Top 3 Axis CNC Milling Machine”. When I saw this design, I knew it was what I was looking for because I could “scale” it up. I think Tom did a great job in showing us a easy frame for CNCs.

Step 32BEIGH3 Specs


So before we get started, just what will we end up with..? The 2BEIGH3 specs as detailed: Spec CNC Build volume 14” x 14” x 6” 355mm x 355mm x 160mm 3D Printer 14” x 14” x 12” 355mm x 355mm x 355mm

Material Aluminium 3mm or 0.125" ABS and PLA Plastic Rod or Line Plastics 2-3mm(or 0.125") Nylon, Nylon Polymers, Nylon 6 and 6/6 - 6' Rod Foam 3mm or 0.125" PET (Plastic from water bottles) (Steel with the addition of cooling) X-Y Resolution +/- 0.005 ~ +/- 0.012 Z Resolution +/- 0.005 +/- 0.005 (Not bad, but you probably shouldn’t mill pistons for your HEMI or print contact lenses) Cut/Print Speed 350mm/min Cutting Foam Tools/Tips 0.125” – 0.250” Software Any CAD that Makes “.dxf” 24mm/s ABS .32mm - .62mm Any 3D CAD that Exports “.stl”

MACH3 LazyCam PC Win XP

MACH3 slic3r rev 6 Win XP

I/O Computer must have a 25 pin +5 volt “LPT” printer port. Power Usage Power usage with stepper motors is difficult to predict as stepper motors use most of their power the opposite of say, fan motors. They are rated in "Holding Torque" and this means "at a stand still they will not slip". So, they actually draw less power moving the tables, then when they are not moving. To hold the 3 used for the CNC, Hi or Lo res, the power is about 140 watts for the motors, drivers and control board. That would drop some as the X and Y tables move. We wouldn't expect the Z axis to move much at all. With the 3D Printer configuration, we will need to add 55 watts for the Hot-End as it is powered during the entire print. We will also need to add some power for the extruder, but as I mentioned, it draws less because it is always working. A lot less, in the range of 15-25 watts. So for a 3D Printer configuration, we could get over 220 watts.

Step 42BEIGH3 Initial BOM


Before I detail the BOM, I should explain my approach. Like you, I wanted the most for my money. And while it would have been easier to throw cash at parts (if I had cash) like bearings, special threaded rods, hot-ends and extruders, these parts would have also locked us into a machine that would be difficult to scale up or get replacements parts later on. It would also be difficult to hack the 2BEIGH3 for your purposes if there were proprietary components. I have already hacked my own design as I want others to take what they want/need from the design. In theory you should be able to scale a 2BEIGH3 up to cut 48” x 48” x 24” foam CNC or print a 24” x 24” x 24” block of plastic just by changing the pipe, threaded rod and timing

I kept all screws and bolts to ¼ 20 (6mm) and all small screws to 6/32 (4mm). 20” height with a ~16” Z axis old regulated wall wart should be fine. I used http://www. Note: I suggest a vendor that sells a 4 axis kit that’s known to work together. Note2: The 3D printer will reuse the X and Y stepper motor but it also requires a 4th stepper for the extruder. I got one from 1 each 4 axis stepper controller – connects to computer LPT port. and therefore we’ll be building those. so I put a wart on each board and connect all the grounds (-) together. thus a “4 axis controller/driver” is required. 7-9 volts and 12-24+ volts For the 7-9 volts. We'll consider Stepper motors. 3D printer hot-ends and extruders are not yet a commodity. 26” depth. if you want a different size machine.circuitspecialists. I suggest a regulated 12 volt @ 10-12 amps as you’ll not need more voltage with most NEMA 23 and anything higher will make the motors run hotter than required. 12-24+ volts 1-2-8-16 step similar to the one I bought. controllers and drivers to be a commodity for this 4 each stepper driver boards that will connect to the controller card and motors. I had several 12 volt 4 . Basic Machine – The BOM describes a machine with a 28” width. As 10-12 amp power supplies are not everywhere. CNC BOM Let’s get those things on order that we need so they’ll be on-hand when it’s time to install them 4 each NEMA #23 stepper motors 5-8 kg-cm with 6mm (0.belt lengths.(-)…not the (+) Mach3 CNC Software by Artsoft Inc Please Purchase LazyCAM CNC Software by Artsoft Inc . For the 12-24+. It converts GCode from the CAM and Slicer programs and drives the signals to the Stepper Motors. (NOT USB). Linear bearings are a commodity. Just connect the grounds together…. . Again.there are several places to buy these.Free Mach3 SW runs on the computer connected to the Stepper Board.cncgeeker. so everything (other than standard hardware you can get at any HW store) is available from just 4 vendors. any 1 amps regulated PS will do…. I also wanted to keep the total shipping costs down. I therefore took the approach that everything should be a commodity or a modified part. just scale up or down.250”) shaft Shop around…. Ratings should be 3 amps. Power Supply for Steppers – The controllers plus driver usually takes two voltages. I will mention but not detail small screws. but way to expensive. Note: do not parallel these PS as they are switchers and will become erratic. and my driver boards are individual boards.6 amp wall warts about.

you should be able to flick the flange with a finger nail and feel it with your finger at either end cap. I handed the Hardware store guy a list and had him cut and thread.tight.. I do not use Teflon tape. Again.! 3 each Unions 5 each 6” 2 each 12” 2 each end caps Step 5Frame assembly i Refer to the 2BEIGH3 frame drawing to determine what piece goes where. now is the time to go to 1 1/2" or longer pipes.Now for the first trip to the Hardware store! Pipe . the unions are here so you can tighten the pieces as tight as possible and then use the unions to align for the right angles. “Tight” . You can buy pieces or like me. This is why I’ve used unions..tight.these are made outta gold. As an elbow or Tee will never ever line up where you need it.. just two large wrenches and muscle. if you want to scale up. This is why they make tape and other sealing compounds. Saved about $20 this way. because they know that you’ll always have to compromise tight for alignment. QTY Desc 2 each 24” 3 each elbow 1 each Tee 1 each Flange – note…. Assembly The goal here is tight.all are Standard 1” iron pipe.. When complete..

buy or invent a solid table to support a 2BEIGH3. Now is a good time to build. Well above printing temperatures. Polycarbonate can change state from a plastic to a crystal foam that easily catches on fire if the hot-end temperature exceeds 400C. NOTE II: Polycarbonate can become unstable at very high temperatures. Because these fumes emanate from the hot-end's thermoplast area (About the size of a pencil eraser) the actual amount of fumes is quite small. at this point. The Z-axis union is just for rotational needs and you only need to get reasonably close. look at your frame…all your future efforts and work will take place between the two 24” pieces and about 8” up form that center.Fumes only at fire/flame temperaturesVent required Nylon .Vent required PLA Less Distinctive odor . I’m tall. You must wear ear protection. I had an accurate digital level. you only need to make sure the Z axis neck is at a right angle to the rest of the frame. Remember. The PWM controller will have a top limit for temperature. iron is not light.Vent required NOTE: 3D Printing with these plastics is just like cooking on an open stove. Please do not try to print Polycarbonate with the released design. Then I measured how level the 12” piece connected to the flange was and adjusted the two outer unions to correct.Noxious Fumes only at fire/flame temperatures . so you’ll want to vent all other odors and fumes. Something along the line of a standard cooking stove vent is sufficient as long as it's in a position above the hot-end to capture odors and fumes. Odors and Fumes ABS Distinctive foul odor . Now. Also. Installation .Very subtle Odor Noxious Fumes only at fire/flame temperatures.No Odor Hazardous fumes at fire/flame temperaturesVent required PET Very subtle Odor Fumes only at fire/flame temperaturesVent required Acrylic .As for alignment. but hot plastics stink and emit fumes. I set the two legs on 2x4 so as not to set on the end caps and used a shim to level the legs for a reference. A complete unit can weight 50 lbs +. There will be a separate instructable for 3 D Printing polycarbonate and it will describe a PWM controlled heater for the Hot-End. so my table is 48” off the floor. Never let things get to hot Vent all of the odors Don't touch the electricity. the Z Axis only needs to be level with the legs not the earth.Vent required Polycarbonate . The 3D printer makes almost no noise. There are several ways to do this. This is a good time to mention noise. Period. The CNC version will use a high speed mini router that is very loud as it cuts.Hazardous fumes at fire/flame temperatures.Very Distinctive Odor .

but tapped at 1/4-28. Hammer Punch to mark holes to be drilled Hand Drill – reversible and variable speed Hardened Drill bits – ¼. Now is the time to paint the frame. drill at 7/32" and tap to 1/4-20 There will be one hole on the hot-end that is drilled at 7/32.Now is a good time to plan your installation. you may want to show your friends. Small Bench Drill press – nothing special. Eye Protection .goggles Ear Protection – ear covers or plugs Hairnet if needed Hack Saw or 28” bolt cutter TIP: I quit cutting small metal pieces years ago and just use a bolt cutter. 7/32 and 9/64 . just a small bench drill press. You may even be able to rent/borrow one as we won’t need it very often. We will need this to drill the holes for the 3D Printer hot-end and will be drilling a ¼” hole 1” deep in aluminum. You’ll notice mine is not painted…! Step 6Tools needed for the Initial 2BEIGH3 CNC section i Gather our tools and get organized! Pipe wrenches Pliers Screwdrivers Taps as we are going to tap a few holes ¼ 20 and ¼ 28 The ¼ 28 will be used later for the 3D P but might as well get it now.For all 1/4-20 threaded holes. While it may be in the garage. Sandpaper – carbide for smoothing metal edges . My wife and kids voted the garage! One last item on the frame. 1/8. use paint with a rust inhibitor. A tap Handle as we will hand tap three holes We will use a hand drill to tap remaining holes. As it’s iron and will rust.

5. A word of note: I designed and built this unit in 8 weeks from concept to cutting/printing parts.00 Step 72BEIGH3 Safety i The 2BEIGH3 uses dangerous extremes to do its job. however. Just have a bit of faith in yourself and like they say "Just do it". however. Yes. And "yes" my CNC bit tried to drill its way to China. The Stepper motors connected to the 1/4 20 threaded rod allows the CNC X-Y table to push steel past your cutting bit. Now that I have them. It can crush your finger if you are not careful. Knowledge is not! During my design I studied lots of posts here and on other sites. The 2BEIGH3 is Open Source Hardware. but mark you for life. I encourage people to take ideas and hack it. . I made mistakes along the way and I threw em in a "Don't do that again bucket". My thanks to everyone that took the time and effort to share their designs. 1. you must vent fumes and odors. They were so helpful that I have decided to pay back the 2D/3D community by documenting my design. we’ll need one that measures temperature from a thermocouple.It will not just burn you. I can tell you it was not the overwhelming task I thought it would be at all. 2. I am in no way responsible for any injuries from assembly or usage of the 2BEIGH3. 600 F 320C.. The hot end will run at 600F yes. for the 3D Printer. ear and hairnet gear.Volt Meter/DVM – Harbor Freight has these for ~$5. As noted earlier. Use caution with all power tools and wear appropriate eye. Please refer to it as a "2BEIGH3" or "2by3" so others don't confuse it with already available kits or complete units. Plastic is cheap and disposable. 3. Harbor Freight has those including the thermocouple for about $20. the hot-end can reach 1400F! 4. If not connected correctly.

.. Don't touch the electricity. tough. durable. just do a search on 3mm ABS spool..In addition. UP or other 3D Unit.1/8) NYLON rods for the 2BEIGH3 are available from McMaster Carr they come in 6' sections. REPRAP. Please see the attached NYLON properties PDF. I have a friend that had to order a complete new hot-end as he didn't heed my warnings... will probably damage the unit in some way. but you can also print soft durable keypad covers. Yes. UP or other 3D Unit. are low cost ~$3. flexible overlays and a zillion other parts that are difficult in ABS.125 . and you'll hear the sound of french fries being cooked. bendable. the 2BEIGH3 3D Printer has a hot-end designed for NYLON.. You will be amazed at how you can now print objects that are extremely slippery... you can print hose. TOM. fold-able. Put it into the 2BEIGH3. TOM.that's the tip being coated in goo. Don't touch the Hot Parts. Simply inserting NYLON into a REPRAP.So. Vent the Odors and fumes..00 are round and will print a lot of small parts.I have uploaded the "Dupont Nylon OSHA Handling and Ventilation Guide. 3mm (0. Nylon absorbs water/liquids at a greater level than ABS. I get the white rod and take a rag and coat the rod with just a bit of old printer refill ink for the color I's also made of fiberglass and other bits and pieces of nasty things.. so the color looks a bit translucent depending on thickness of the part. NOTE Of Caution to existing 3D Printer Owners about NYLON: NYLON heats differently than ABS. And "yes" "weed-wacker" / "trimmer line" is made of NYLON. 3mm ABS is available from several vendors on the web.. NYLON is extremely slippery and unless you have a "Spiky" extruder. 3D Printing is no different than cooking on an open Stove...pdf" for those interested or desire guidance. Burnt fiberglass has to be drilled out (as my friend found out). In addition. Again.. NYLON.thingiverse.pdf 497 KB Step 8Basic 2BEIGH3 CNC X Y Table BOM . transparent and chemically resistant to solvents. as your extruder will more than likely slip.pdf468 KB Dupont Nylon OSHA Handling and Ventilation Guide.. All Nylon polymers require high pressure extrusion.

. aluminium “U” channel and some 12” square boards. BOM . and 2nd. This is similar to http://www.instructables. the lower precision table will be good enough to make the parts needed for the 3D Printer X and Y table. but are fine for making a lot of parts that don't require +/-0. we will make a simplified lower precision table to make those parts. this is a lower precision X-Y axis slop. This will be made out of some drawer I chose this route rather than to just say…”Here is the dwg. The drawer slides have too much lateral tolerance for a precision table.. move a hole slightly or add a temporary "C" Clamp.. some people may not need/want 0.005 We can make both the precision table parts for the CNC table as well as the 3D Printer table parts with a quick and simple table. is actually the NUT for the threaded rod and we're going to make a one that will be easy and solid.just do it. The most important part.005” precision Again. I will provide CAD drawings for the precision table in another step. First. just go get them laser cut” for two reasons. As you build this table and you see you need to add a spacer (couple of washers). and to do that. so we are looking for "close" not exact.i • » Basic 2BEIGH3 CNC X Y Table We will need to make some parts for our precision CNC table...

Order 1 each 1” x 1” x 12” Delrin Plastic McMaster Carr PN 8739K92 50% for the CNC and 50% for the 3D Printer 3 each ¼” couplers McMaster Carr 6412K11 1 each Electric Cutout Tool Harbor Freight has these for ~$20 This is the business end of your CNC If you already have a similar tool with a 1/8" collet. No matter what you cut. that will work as well It’s the next item that counts! 1 each Three Flute Coated Carbide End Mill 1/8" McMaster Carr PN 8927A531 $19. I went to 2 HW stores And looked at ~ 100 to pick 3 To test if it’s straight. Single part 2 each ¾ “ X 36” Aluminium U Channel 2 each Boards/wood 12” x 12” x ~1” 3 each ¼” 20 x 36” Threaded Rod These need to be straight. from cardboard to steel. Step 9Getting those Stepper Motors Running .00 but worth every cent! This “will” cut HEMI pistons! This is where you don’t go cheap. just roll it on the store floor 1 each 1” x 1/8” x 36”flat stock galvanized steel 2 each 2” “L” brackets 1 each Aluminium “L” channel ½” x ¼” x 36” 2 each Boards 6” x ~18” x ½” These are for the Z Axis – try to get clean straight boards.QTY Desc HW Store2 each 16” – 20” Ball Bearing drawer slides – These come in a pair = 4 total 1 each 16” – 20” Centre Drawer slide.

Leave the stepper controller and motors off and disconnected for now 3. Download my Mach3Mill. Open/run MACH3 and then simply close it 4. Steps for MACH3 1. I will include my control file as it already has settings for the machine we’re building.i • So. please go to the Artsoft Web site as there as several great videos on setup for Mach3 and LazyCAM To move you along.xml file . Install MACH3 you should have rebooted after install as required. It also has a lot of variable/settings that can take a while to learn. those stepper motors and controllers should have arrived by now! No reason to go further till we can move motors! Gather parts: Computer with 5 volt Printer portLoad/Install MACH3 SW Load install LazyCAM SW Stepper motors Stepper control and driver boards Power supplies MACH3 This SW talks to the printer port with pulses that tell the stepper electronics what direction and how far to rotate the motors. 2. Rather than post a tutorial on MACH3. It has an excellent and proven track record in the CNC world.

4. 6. Not for actual part cutting! Motors and Drivers 1.5. just keep clicking the FEED RATE + arrow to speed it up. and they don’t turn. 16. NOTE: Don’t assume anything on power supply polarities. Hook up the 7-9 volts to all boards as needed. The motors should lock/click. 12. With MACH3 running. these are the settings to click/change. 9. Clk the ZERO X. 5. The DIR Low active and Step low active are the 2 items that may be different on your controller from mine. but the + terminal only goes to a single driver board when there are individual boards. a +5 volt power supply won’t work. Hook up the 12 volt PS – Again. but M3 will read it. but it is slow as the machine must cut slow. Use the meter to measure and mark polarities. 18. then connect the grounds together of four supplies. turn on power. 15. 8. Careful. Hook up the motors to the driver boards first using the supplied board and motor documentation. I have attached a simple part in gcode for the 3D Printer. if you don’t have a single supply. For visual effect. Reboot 8. . Copy the downloaded file over your existing Mach3Mill. Connect the interface cable from the control board to the four driver boards if you have individual boards. 11. Use a few buss bars to keep track of grounds and power.xml located in the “C:\ Mach3 Directory 7. NOTE: Do not power the driver boards without a motor connected or they’ll be damaged. You may need to change the extension. Do a search on this site for examples. Connect a fully populated 25 pin printer cable from the computer to the control board. clk it 10. Clk the green Cycle start and the SW starts the process. 19. If you have a single board with all 4 axis. Make a backup of your existing Mach3Mill. You’ll see the progress in the small upper right window. 2. 10. ZERO Z. Download it and within MACH3 load it. My XML file is set for the ¼ 20 rods with a step division of 8 13. The 7-9 volts is just the low level circuitry power supply and draws less than an amp. You should see the part in the small graphic window. Run Mach3 9. When we get to the motors. ZERO Y. 7. 3. 14. If the reset button blinks. ZERO 4 buttons 17. Go to Config/Ports-Pins/motor output and see the setting noted.xml file 6. then you must use a single 12 volt 10+ amp power supply some people use a old power supply from a computer. Use an outlet strip with a switch to turn on the power supplies.

Use the numeric keypad + and – to rotate the 4th motor 16. you'll see a roundish grey unit with a knob on top. up. With motors running.11. If the 4th motor does not respond. you may need to click and change the signal polarity (direction) as noted above. it all gets easier from here! Even the 3D Printer is easier than this initial step. right. but we'll use a light dimmer as we only need ~55volts at the cutter for plastic. go to config/system hotkeys and A/U++ to make the + key + and A/U—to make the – key reverse. Mach3Mill. Believe me. Use the left. Place a sticky note paper on each shaft. 17. This is the part that stops most people from building a CNC machine or Printer. In the photo. You will need to reduce the speed of the cutter to cut plastic.pdf7 KB Step 10Precision CNC Table i . down arrow keys on the comp keyboard to rotate the X and Y motors 14. if the motors do not move. (so you’ll see them turn) 13. You should NOT be able to turn the shaft with your fingers. Use the page up and page down to rotate the Z motor 15. Take your time and check your work before turning power “ON”.xml36 KB 2 by 3 wiring. Again. This is an Auto-transformer that I use to vary speed of the cutting tool. you’ve won the biggest CNC/3D Printer battle. 12.

! The material is 0..220 Plexiglass or extruded acrylic that you can get at the big HW stores. All assembly screws are 1/4 20 1" Philips The screws used for the roller bearings are the same for the X Axis. This makes for a very strong right angle mechanical connection of the parts.Just have the HW store guy cut you a 12" x 12" piece. It looks like a lot of parts.. but my design denotes 22 for maximum precision. This bearing is at any HW store as it's used for patio door rollers. My 2BEIGH3 only uses 8 for X and 8 for Y. NOTE: To cut the largest part for this on the lower precision table..22" I have them cut 2 pc's 12 x 12 and give me the rest for me to cut smaller parts from. the table will use 3/8 steel rod and travels along the rod with a captured bearing. ~ $5. but there are 10 "Y" braces that are all identical. this has been changed to a small block of delrin drilled and tapped to 1/4 20 for a much better fit and easier assembly. The 12" x 12" x 2" block of wood on top of the table is so we can mount our material easily and in different locations to cut without scaring our nice clear plexiglass. For the X Axis.• Take a look at the CAD Drawing image and the photo's to get an idea of our Precision CNC Table. The Y Axis uses the same bearings. This keeps our cost down as linear bearings are extremely expensive and we'll need several. We will brace the X Axis as it's hard to believe how much a 3/8 " rod will bend in just 28". You'll need twice as many nuts and washers as some screws get more than one of each.. The drawing shows a cut plastic part for the threaded rod nut. You DO NOT cut the outline. I don't count these out as you may not want all the bearings.00 a pair. If you look you can see where my bit went a bit lower than I planned on a part or two! Parts are connected via a TEE and SLOT that we'll cut in the plastics. but 2" for the Y axis. but on 3/4 square aluminum tubing as the Y table will move almost completely to either side of the X Axis. Its tough stuff as used in the horizontal plane on this project. Step 112BEIGH3 Precision CNC Table BOM and Assembly . Lowes sells 18" x 24" x . you must make sure your low res table can cut a 12" x 12" part.

it' simply a matter of screws and nuts. The "T" nut you get from the hardware store must have 2-3 small holes to mount in the . Bom QTY 2 each 2 each 16 – 22 BOX 2 BOX 1 each 1 1 10 1 2 Desc 3/8 DIA.i • The fist image shows the exploded view for your reference. Again. 4 Items of note: 1. as we have already cut our plastic. X 36” steel rods – Stainless ¾” x 36” square Aluminium Tubing Patio Door Slide Bearings 100 pc’s of 1” ¼ 20 Phlips screws 100 pc’s of ¼ 20 nuts and washers – Stainless “T” Nut for ¼ 20 YPlate XPlate Y Struts Y Stepper Mount Y TNUT Plates Assembly per the drawing is straight forward.

These are a breeze to drill and tap.. so there is NO limit! . Note: Be careful moving the Y axis toward you so as not to have it's "T" nut reach the stepper coupler.. Be careful as you do this. Next Connection of Table to Frame . 3. Once the table is to the right side of the frame. you're at your mechanical reference point. Set the table on the frame. but getting there requires a bit of care on mounting the T nut.Assemble the complete table except X Axis threaded rod and stepper motor. let it pull the table to the right side leaving about 1-2" of clearance.250 " hole in the end of the 3/8 " rods and having marked the location on the pipe.about 3" out from the flange.. this is strong. measured and cut the Y axis threaded rod about 3" from the frame neck. You should now add 1/4-20 " 2" . it's plastic and you need to drill slooowly as to not chip the plastic. Install the X axis threaded rod and stepper motor connecting them with the coupler ordered earlier... Shim the stepper up so the threaded rod is parallel with the 3/8" steel rods.. You should now mark and drill a 0..21/2 " bolts to secure the table to the frame. Clamp the 3/8" rods to the right leg of the table and center the stepper motor.. My thanks to all of the users contributions. The table should not move very fast at all. So from the bottom of the Y Plate to the center of the bearing curvature. Use your arrow keys on your keyboard to make sure the tables move as designed. is that you need to make sure the bearings for the Y axis are all spaced the same. Align the X plate with the Y plate. Turn on the stepper system and while holding the stepper motor. you have not installed any limit switches yet. The drawing shows the square tubes at about 15". 2. it should be about 34mm..not left close. The Y axis threaded rod will need to be reduced in length. You may need to drill and use a slightly smaller screw than a 6/32 for the T nut. I waited till I set the table on the frame. They go a long way to decrease backlash and increase precision. Either way. left far.They are actually. NOTE: I have updated both the X axis and Y axis Threaded rod nuts based on excellent user suggestions. yet long enough to allow the Y plate to clear the top of the Y stepper motor.. drilled a through hole at three of the four intersections. Remember. Drop a nut on a string down from your estimate of where the router bit will be.. right far. Once make the drawing easier. Center the table where the nut denotes the location of the router bit. The only spacing issue.the plastic Y strut. 36" cut to about the max depth of my table or 28" 4.. Right close. Mark and drill holes in the two "L" brackets to mount the stepper to the pipe. The material is Delrin and the last 2 photos denote the dim's.

dxf124 KB XPlate.dxf128 KB 2BEIGH3 CNC DXFs.. It doesn't matter.....dxf2 MB Step 122BEIGH3 Z Axis for all configurations .The X and Y are aligned within the assembly and the Z has no X or Y.. "that" it moves 20 mm.dxf133 KB YPlate.. You could mount the table off by 20 degrees in the horizontal plane and it wouldn't matter. no less and that's done in calibration and my XML file is already set up for this design mechanics.Just up and down.dxf47 KB YStrut.You should lightly lube both threaded rods with a non drying lube. Something with PTFE/Teflon in it works well. NOTE: Do not get caught up in trying to make everything line up more. YTNut holder.dxf167 KB Y Stepper Mounting Plate... What's important is that when we tell the X axis to move 20 mm. But we'll check to be sure.

or other cutting device. use small screws to make sure the head of the screw does not block the travel of the slide. To mount your dremel. For the CNC. They are rated at 100+ lbs. you can cut a better.i • "Z" The 2BEIGH3 Z Axis uses one "center drawer slide". The Z Axis threaded rod nut is made out of the delrin you bought. or router. With the Basic table operational. once the basic table is operational. As with the drawer slides on the basic CNC table. The Z Axis is basically two boards connected to the drawer slide. so they're very good for this purpose. but we'll want to shim them for 45 degree angles as they do give a bit at 45. For the 3D printer. NOTE. some wood screws and a strip of rubber under the strapping to reduce vibration. The Stepper motor is literally wood screwed into one of the top corners (for now). I used plain old metal strapping. more accurate mounting bracket. Again. this axis has to support the weight of your router. They are great in the X and Y axis. dremel. We will cut a piece of the delrin and tap it as out threaded rod nut. you do not need to shim the Z Axis if you're not building the precision CNC. it supports the hot end only as the extruder is mounted off the frame. we will build/cut a more secure bracket for the Z Stepper motor. Simply cut and drill to .

but. Don't let all those wires scare you.. Frame is to be "tight"'s not. I have simply added some 12 volt fans to keep every motor cool..... I suppose you could just dl designs from the web and build those.sounds like overkill. and let's face'll see when you get it... Important tips/notes/lessons/points: 1.20 tap and tap the lone hole for the threaded rod..right?. Carbide bit...! Pretty simple're an inventor. Here's the list of wires/cables: X motor Y motor Z motor Extruder motor X fan Y fan Z fan Extruder fan Thermocouple Power to hot-end or cutting router can cut you .. but it's scattered..... to where the motors are and looks complicated! Step 13Thoughts on CNC i As I mentioned. The Software assumes you have some mechanical CAD/Drawing knowledge. I knew nothing of setting up a CNC. you should have some CAD training.... until I started this project. Then use your 1/4 ..the drawing (in mm's). I've learned that it's much less complicated than it looks hardware wise. A word on the attached photos. if you're building the 2BEIGH3.

Getting the stepper motors running with Mach3 is your biggest hurdle.twice! 5. tossing the remains away.. etc. You will too. I made all kinds of little improvements.. Don't complicate any assembly. fan holders/frames.we got that 3D printer next... There will . 9.. When your friends find out you have your own CNC. We start out with a bar or slab of material and cut off what we don't need. Don't look back. NOT where X and Y stops or limit switches are.. that's distance in mm's or inches. stepper motor bracket for the Z axis. there are still limitations.. Calibration... Watch ALL of the Artsoft videos.... 4. While you can make 3D like objects.just holding it! 3. And it's not really that tough....! Step 142BEIGH3 3D Printer Overview i • » Overview We consider CNC machining to be "subtractive manufacturing" or "subtractive build" method. Once I got the basic table prepared to be asked to cut all kinds of stuff! 8.. 7.. 6.

. Temperature with NYLON .. One of the main differences. NYLON has a ton of features I want everyone to experiment with in the design of new parts that can take advantage of it's properties. And this is where the high "pushing power or compression capability" of my extruder is required. When you learn how to print with NYLON. the main goal was for a combination machine that could quickly be configured for CNC .. This is also why retraction isn't advised as the pressure is large enough to make it difficult to completely relieve by simply pulling the material back.. 3..fill at 50%. but they are not melted either.. 6.want a bearing that has a bit of give to reduce vibration. here are some differences when printing with NYLON. but it's not necessary. PLA and PET but we will "cold extrude" Nylon. I'm sure you folks can teach me a lot more about 3D printing and I appreciate your comments. Platform only needs plain masking tape You can use the Blue tape as it has more wax that the part's first layer sticks to... The 3D Printer is "Additive Manufacturing" as we take a constant source of material and force it to a desired shape.fill at 25%. Of course..CNC.. that the major key to parts printed in Nylon and Nylon polymers is that it's tight bonding literally eliminates "de-lamination"! Going just a bit deeper at this point.. Again.We can control the "density" of the internal fill of printed parts from within the software. NYLON Has less Viscosity.. so we can literally change the hardness/firmness/tensil strength of a part by changing it's fill percentage. is that we will "melt" it welds to Kapton. I have provided an MSDS for NYLON for those interested. 1. Don't use Kapton tape.. NYLON Sticks to nothing when it's cold 4.3D . The 2BEIGH3 3D Printer uses the same operational principles as most other current X-Y plastic extrusion printers. Nothing is wasted. (Kapton tape is a super high temperature rated tape for heating appliances.fill at 100% and so on. NYLON is very pliable as you scrap on the floor as unusable material. There are of course differences in how we print with NYLON as opposed to ABS.. I am sure you'll be pleased with the final results. like I did.. Want a small keyboard button overlay for a control box..Must be closely controlled to about 320c on the 2BEIGH3 This is the cartridge temperature. NYLON Sticks to everything when it's at the right temp.) .. the Tighter polymers like Nylon are not really cold... Acrylic and polycarbonate. Nylon polymers. 5... For those familiar with 3D printers..want a hard almost UNbendable lever. They are also designed for NYLON and other polymers. 2. A major benefit of the 2BEIGH3 is that the hot-end ( the component that heats the plastic) and extruder (the mechanism that pushes the plastics rods into the hot-end) are designed for more than just ABS or PLA. not the polymer temperature. And I'm sure you'll find.

however. I hope to share those discoveries with the community as they happen. One of the major benefits of printing with tighter polymers like Nylon and it's chemical relatives. then expect that during a print to smell these elements being burned.. The very nature of 3D printed parts means that all parts rely on the attachment of each individual layer to the last layer. 14 NYLON emits no odors of it's own. 8.makes a mess. while these parts may look similar to parts printed in ABS or PLA. the flexibility and pliability of parts made with Nylon and similar polymers opens up a whole new group of possible parts and their usage. There can be a bit of corner lift at 100% fills on large parts. 10. The technician sent me three short videos.3 sec to burn the threads. it will absorb elements from it's environment. in some cases. This is a preliminary video made by one of the technicians as the samples I've submitted are not scheduled to go through full test for another month. I use an old beard trimmer.7. I am posting the next video. If your hot-end isn't mechanically tight. Nothing glues to NYLON except other melted NYLON so if you need multi-part assemblies. 18. So those currently building a 2BEIGH3 can see the strength of their future parts. Even today. they should be designed to be held together with hardware. NOTE: Some of the photos of the Child's Insole are very high resolution. I hit the part with a propane torch for about ... For large parts. vinegar or whatever. their mechanical strength and structure is. NYLON strands from printing are not a fire hazard. 17. 15. the NYLON will find a place to leak out. Retraction does not work well due to low Viscosity 11. Rafts go a long way to eliminate this. It's also important to point out that one of the major complaints of parts printed in ABS and PLA. I'm learning more with each new part and material I print. NYLON cools slower that ABS. A heated table is not needed or desired 9.. 16.. 12. The tiny threads left behind can not be removed with acetone as NYLON laughs at acetone. As noted in the previous videos.. almost that of a Die Extruded part. If you soak NYLON in an element like bleach. so the extruder will need to reverse a greater distance if retraction is used. In these videos a . two each at 320 frames/sec and one 180 frames/sec. some kits come with instructions to have the end user print a series of replacement parts for the 3D Printer they've just purchased.. 13. is lack of strength or mechanical structure. NYLON will absorb water. is the extremely tight bond from one layer to the next. so keep it dry when not in use or it will add blemishes to your great. In reality.

NYLON.pdf468 KB nylon msds.doc45 KB Step 152BEIGH3 3D Printer X and Y Table i .sample of polymer 618 (my part number) is struck by an 8lb sledge hammer. With the excellent input from others that have contributed to blogs. helps us all to put the "Disruptive" back into a "Disruptive Technology". It is my hope that you find the 3D Printer configuration of a 2BEIGH3. Even if you're not ready to build a 2BEIGH3 just yet. postings here on instructables. you'll want to take a min to watch. comment sections and product reviews all over the web. please take a moment to watch the videos. For those of you that will want to build tough parts.pdf84 KB Slicer Settings.

close the program and copy your existing XML file to a safe place in case power goes out. One tapped for a 1/4 20 and the other for a 1/4 thru hole. We will also use the delrin pieces to level the Y platform as that is one of the more important 3D printer requirements. you should only need to change the two settings mentioned earlier on polarity. The X Azis stepper does most of the hard work here as it must push the complete Y axis along with it's motor left an right. take a look at the drawings and pdf for dimention data. This is what is holding my resolution back for the moment. we will use 2 pieces of the 1" x 1" delrin. Rather than linear bearings we will use delrin pieces that will slide easily along the 3/8" steel rods. as some printers "can" work at a 90 degree angle.• » The 2BEIGH3 3D Printer X-Y Table is a fast belt driven table that does not use linear bearings. One change I would make would be to use a NEMA 17 or 11 for the Y Axis to reduce it's weight. your changes are in memory and not the xml file. but instead depends on gravity as we don't expect the table to operate upside down. Again. Until then. I cheat here and actually bought 2 additional stepper motors to reduce my change-over time. it's better to build the tables up and then lay a belt across the two sprockets to best locate the position of the clamp hole. but we can loose control of the NYLON at to slow a speed as it will start to fold over (Fancy term for "drip") due to it's viscosity. My XML file assumes all motors are set as follows: X and Y = 1/16 step Z and A(extruder) = 1/8 step BOM for the HW store 4 each 3/8" x 36 " SS rod . This is not meant to be funny. I can slow the unit down with ABS and it's fine. We will reuse the X and Y stepper motors from the CNC table as we have couplers that allow a quick change out from one table to the other. For Mach3. but again. You need to do this because Mach3 dosn't update it's xml file till you close the program. You will need to locate the hole for the clamp in the center of your tables. To clamp the belts to the tables. DL my next XML file as it's configured for 3D printing.

they may move out of their location. you should use snug fitting wire ties on each side of the supports to secure the 3/8" rod.. BOM from our Basic CNC Cut parts 8 each Bar Struts 2 each Transports 2 each Stepper motor mounts 1 each Y Axis Base Plate Assembly: You'll assemble all of the X axis and just the Y axis table first. After initial X assembly. Again.20x 3" bolts 4 each Patio door roller bearings NOTE: This is slightly different than the CAD image as I found that there was not enough weight on the Y Axis to make the delrin bearing work.scale the whole unit up! 2BEIGH3 3D Printer Table. Then set the parts out on your MDF table and mark for holes to drill. Other wise.220 Plexiglass . I do this rather than dimensioning a large board. After you have the unit assembled.xml36 KB belt clamp1. You will note that the 3/8" rods float in the supports at this point. The Y axis delrin bearings sitting on the X axis rods will indicate spacing. A 14" square is about the limit on a centered table....20 1" screws and 2 each 1/4 . This approach allows for tolerance for all of the individual parts..dxf690 KB Mach3Mill. only to force parts into position. The Y axis plate is just a small base plate. Tis is just for initial assembly. 1/4" holes.pdf7 KB Step 162BEIGH3 3D Printer Extruder Assembly . I use a 12" square of the plexiglass only because I don't currently plan on printing larger parts. complete Y axis assembly. Otherwise. The intent is that you will want some main printing plate on top of this base plate and that you may want a different size than I use.1 each 1 each 24" x 24" x 1" MDF Wood 1” x 1” x 12” Delrin Plastic McMaster Carr PN 8739K92 1 each 24" x 12" x 0.We will hand drill this part 4 each XL Series timing Sprokets McMaster Carr PN = 57105K14 2 each 63" timing belts McMaster Carr PN =6484K453 Lots of 1/4 .

The major difference in the 2BEIGH3 extruder from other geared units. The gears are cut from plexiglass (extruded acrylic). The 2BEIGH3 3D Printer Extruder Assembly is similar to the geared extruders used on other machines. the Nylon is far to slippery and the extruder. but for now it will get . You will see that a white lithium grease has been added to the teeth to reduce friction as extruded acrylic is not something we want gears made of. is that the gear ratio is about 15% larger and the important difference is that the 2BEIGH3 extruder has spikes in the HOBB's screw (the section of the 2" screw that the material comes in contact with) to grab the Nylon as well as the ABS. The 2BEIGH3 extruder is seen in the photos. Please do a search on "Wade Extruder for 3D Printing" and read about the variations and usages. will eventually rub a flat spot in the Nylon and stop extruding completely. and push it with force along/through a tube on a path into the hot-end.i • » The purpose of the extruder is to pull the material off of the spool or roll. Without spikes. I have heard these referred to as a "Wade's" type of extruder.

125 or 3mm+ In the photo you'll see a white tube just above the spikes screw. You have cut the gears with the basic CNC table from the CAD prints and I designed the center hole to be tight. The spring is just an available spring at the HW store I tested till I got max pressure without breaking plastic and making it easy to change from Nylon to ABS and back. The Extruder is connected to the hot-end via a "bowdens" system as seen on some . it only took about 20-30 min to assemble.. The two 626ZZ bearings are the same as the other patio door bearings.00 online. The distance between the threaded washers is 0. The small gear is epoxied to the Stepper motor shaft. The plates are spaced apart by the thickness of a nut. I found that the pressure was so great that I needed to guide the ABS and NYLON directly to the tubing connector. Remember. the material is just 0. I will eventually post another instructable to show you how to transition to a printed extruder with NYLON that will not need lubrication.# 1 is the same width as we have between the two threaded washers. These are about $2. Then use some sandpaper to roughen the shaft surface of the stepper. give it a good pop and out comes the bearing. The business end of the extruder is that 2" 1/4 -20 Screw. Assembly All screws ( except the hobbed screw and pressure handle pivot) and nuts are 6-32.. in turn plug # 2 in turn pressing the ABS or NYLON rod firmly against the spikes. we have used a dremel cutting disk to cut small slots along the opposite axis of the threads. Once I cut the parts..220 and we want a much surface area as possible as the gears mesh. Between the two "threaded "fender washers". The tube is a 1/4 OD and 1/8 ID Nylon standoff. You will need to reem/file it to get a snug fit.kinda like a sandwich. add last plate. The two washers are what's known as "Fender Washers" with a 3/16 ID and 1" OD. I installed a 1/4 20 bolt with a nut on both sides of the bearing. A simple "fast curing two part epoxy" is used. Delrin is just as slippery as Teflon and Nylon. The handle or lever. Just add screws to the main plate. The two delrin plugs ..20 tap and will turn the washer into a very thin nut! These two threaded fender washers will be on each side of our ABS rod or line to keep it from bending or moving away from the spikes. TIP: I cut 4 small gears and 2 large gears in the event I needed to break a small gear to reposition it. This gives us the "spikes" we will need to grab and push the NYLON and ABS into the hot end.. is sping loaded and applies force ( a lot) on to plug # 1.. Placed it in a vice. The stepper shaft is 6mm or . You can either order these online. The plug #2 is just a 1" x 1" x 1/4" square that pushes against the first plug. Do not epoxie till you have built the assembly and have aligned the gears. I'm still using this extruder as it's working great.250. or just pop them out of the patio roller shell. but very hard. add a nut. add the next plates. Note (in the photo) the crimp side and this is the side the bearing will pop out on. add nuts. or large gear during assembly. The hole is just right to tap with our 1/4. add a printing.

I have also uploaded the 2D dxf files rotated for some CAD systems that want everything on an XY plane. The intent is as follows: 1. Show the spring loading. The hot-ends mount the same and connect to the same material tube. Show the material path through the unit 2. NOTE: (The photos show a Red Nylon small gear as I am getting ready to design an all Nylon Extruder and am currently testing gears.32 for hi res small items 0. 0. Show the tapered Delrin block that presses the material against the slotted screw. I want people to hack the 2BEIGH3 for their needs.42 for most prints 3.dxf429 KB main plate. The 2BEIGH3 uses hot-ends with the nozzle installed for different resolutions. Please note the assembly photos. 0. and to change hot-ends. This is a "Quick Connect Coupler MMC PN 51215K106" This makes it easy to put the extruder anywhere we want. Show and provide more detail on the location of the bearings. I have a different config file in slic3r for each nozzle. Again. 2. Anything smaller and we'll need to get drivers that are smaller than 1/16 step. 5. 3. 1.dxf99 KB Material release handle. These are denoted with an "R".32 is about the limit of the X-Y table stepper drivers.dxf7 KB .dxf9 KB large gear. washers and slotted (hobbed) screw. Show the added plastic tube that directs the material outward. My 2BEIGH3 has three hot-ends that all mount the same. I designed the 2BEIGH3 so you can use other extruder and hot end designs. 4.dxf2 MB sub plate D.dxf20 KB Mounting plate A.62mm for low res or large parts.) 2BEIGH3 Extruder DXFs.Ultimaker printers. 0.

dxf12 KB sub plate C.dxf18 KB Mounting plate A R.dxf8 KB sub plate B R.dxf35 KB Small Gear.dxf7 KB Mounting plate B R.dxf8 KB main plate R.dxf8 KB sub plate D R.dxf276 KB sub plate A.dxf34 KB Small Gear R.Mounting plate B.dxf427 KB sub plate C R.dxf88 KB Material release handle R.dxf8 KB sub plate B.dxf264 KB sub plate A R.dxf11 KB Step 172BEIGH3 3D Printer Hot-End .dxf8 KB large gear R.

Just 2 screws mount the device to the Z Axis board.023" mig welding tip...there we go. Because there are minor differences. This is a .knew we'd use that 1/4 28! The mig welding tip is drilled out with a 1/8" bit to about . you'll need to re-zero your Z Axis.thingiverse.. The first is the lower resolution tip. Seehttp://www.28. The Heater connects with standard electrical spade lugs and the thermocouple uses one of the support 6/32 threaded rods.i • » The 2BEIGH3 hot-end is designed for quick replacement or swap out from job to job.200" from the tip. The 2BEIGH3 uses two tip types. One inside the The small aluminum block is tapped to 1/4 . Careful with ABS .. The white cylinders are the Teflon/PTFE tubes we ordered.

What this means is that you should always retract a few mm's of ABS or PLA material while preparing for the next print. ABS changes states much faster than NYLON. I have been printing parts for work and friends.5mm ID that we can roll to a smaller ID It's cheap They're everywhere.. (Of course you need one like in my photo. but starts to drop threads after that. 1' 0. BOM 1 each 8547K31 1 each 8547K23 1 each 1 each 4' installation. I typically have a 1/8" tube blowing cool air on the lower section of the white cylinder where it meets the aluminum to keep ABS from pooling.. it can have issues you need to watch for with ABS. So you have to design with restraints in mind.023" mig welding tip .. Even Amazon has ump-teen flavors. 1 each 4 each 1 each 1 each Length 1 each 2 each 1 each 1 each 1 each 1/2 OD x 1/4 " ID Teflon/PTFE Tube .. High Resolution Nozzle The second Hot-end nozzle is a higher resolution unit that you may already have in your tool drawer. More on that later.. not an all plastic oiler) Since I got my printer up and running.Harbor Freight $10 for 5 pc's male 1/4" spade terminals for #16 awg wire ring terminal for the thermocouple Delrin 1" x 1" x 4+ " MM Carr PN 8739K92 each hot-end needs about 4" 1-2 amp 120 volt Light Dimmer . you must not let the ABS idle in the hot end as it will tend to pool inside and the extruded material will start to vary in thickness/dia. and when you use ABS with this hot-end. I have a free handful from a vendor as it had his LOGO on it...each hot-end needs about 5" MMC PN #8 washer Coupler MMC PN 51215K106 or any HW Store 3/8 neopreme tubing (Plumbing Section of your HW Store) Cut to fit your #6/32 x 24" threaded rod 6/32 nuts 120 volt heater cartridge MM Carr PN 3618K119 aluminum block Cut from MMC PN 6023K291 Multipurpose Anodized Aluminum (Alloy 6061) 3/8" Thick X 2" Width.each hot-end needs about 4" MMC PN 1/4" OD x 1/8" ID Teflon/PTFE Tube .While this hot end is designed for NYLON.A pocket oiler It is made of aluminum It is threaded It has a's almost always printing or cutting! The 2BEIGH3 can print a 55 degree undercut.

I am not a polymer specialist and can not speak for Teflon Non-Stick Coating or as some refer to it PTFE.56 Amps at 120 volts and a nominal 300ma at the printing temp It is still not a light bulb. http://en.wikipedia. it will push the 1/4 PTFE rod down and apply pressure to the chamfered end. The design is such that as you screw in the top connector. 4. NOTE: As to PTFE or as the rest of us know it “Teflon Non-Stick Coating for cooking utensils” is of course the famous Dupont coating used by millions for cooking. And to this day it is taught in colleges and universities. The temperature at the point of contact on the hot-end is about 10 to 20 degrees higher than most people cook their meats but certainly not as hot as an unattended frying pan left on the stove-top. Assembly Cut/Saw and Drill the Delrin per the print Cut and Drill the Aluminum per the print NOTE: The ID of the larger tube is slightly smaller than the OD of the smaller tube. 2. there has been something known as the “Teflon Controversy”. While the heater cartridge can reach temperatures as noted 600F. Otherwise hot plastic will find a way between the two tubes and as it expands a bit will start to limit the smooth flow of material to the aluminum block. 12mm dia. Chamfer the Top outside edge of the 1/2" tube so it's meets snug with the delrin. This is not As the author of this instructable and the designer of the 2BEIGH3. Or about 1/1000 of an average frying pan. Since it’s invention back in 1938. this is not the actual printing temperature. so we need a good Light Dimmer capable of 1+ amps. A Google search on the term “Teflon Controversy” will provide you a wealth of insight. this author respects and appreciates everyone's comments. As for an in-depth and scientific description of Teflon Non-Stick Coating for cooking utensils. define the usage of Teflon in the actual 3D NYLON printing process. 3.The Heater cartridge draws . so don't go larger than 1/4. As any inventor or designer wants those that duplicate his efforts to be safe. The circular area of the Teflon Non-Stick Coating that comes in contact with heat is ½ inch”. After you have cut to length. Note. We want a snug fit. this site is a good start. 1. place the larger tube in a vice or clamp and run a 1/4" drill through it's center. The Heater cartridge is isolated and CSA approved but you still need to use covered Spade terminals for Safety. this is where your plastic and NYLON will leak if there's not a good pressure seal. as the PTFE will expand . The actual temperature at print time is about 20 – 25 degrees above that of ABS. Again. I can however. I’ll take a few lines to explain where concerns originate. as NYLON would boil at that value. Chamfer the bottom outside edge of the 1/4" tube so it'll sit guided into the top of the 1/4-28 hole.

install the thermocouple and you're good to go.the first time we heat it up. Do not solder as at 320c. This is an "NPT" thread. Use a very slow speed on your varible speed drill. Screw the tip into the aluminum block . If it won't open up. Use compressed air to blow out any other flecks of metal. If you notice leaking around the 1/2" tube and aluminum block..023 hole will still be clogged.. 10W 30 works great. You will need to drill with a 1/8" bit into the mig tip to about .tight. Use oil.pdf59 KB Step 182BEIGH3 3D Printer Operaton . The threaded rods are in my photos slightly bent. Wrap three turns of Teflon tape around the threads of the mig tip.. Be careful not to strip the tapped hole.. DO NOT push something from the tip in. Crimp the Spade terminals to the heater cartridge wires. you can do as I did.. time vs money. Works great! Again.Take a small wire and push from the inside (where you drilled) out and the shavings will come out the tip. Pull it out . The washer keeps the inner tube from sliding up into the connector. and Tap's are expensive. tap it with the 1/16 bit again.. The metal is very soft. And rather than cut new rods.2" from the tip Use a sharp bit. As Delrin is easy to Tap. Just take a old peice of 1/2" pipe and use your dremel to cut about 12-14 slots in the threads as shown... The goal is for the heater cartridge. This is due to an earlier insulator design that wouldn't hold up to the mechanical stress. You'll need to tap threads into the top of the Delrin block. I just bent these into you were going to complete the hole with a smaller bit. they'll come UN-soldered. tighten the connector to apply more pressure to the inner tube. The 0. Measure and cut your threaded rod. to heat the alum and therefore the tip. The drill process will push some of the metal out the tip.then use more oil. Use a 1/16 drill bit and just tap the bottom of the drilled hole. Hot End..

Load the NYLON Make sure our 4th axis is pushing the NYLON rod thru the tube. The nozzle should "just" rub the paper. Reset and rezero Place a sticky note paper under the nozzle Move the nozzle down till it touches the sticky note paper.. Do not load NYLON yet.i • I have posted some videos of the operation of the printer and CNC. Zero all 4 axis as we did earlier. Center the nozzle on the table and about 2" up.. You can view hundreds of ABS time lapse printing videos on YT and I would suggest watching these to get an idea as to how these units work. I will address NYLON as it uses a modified process from ABS. just enough to know it's there. Load the 2BEIGH3 gcode test file into Mach3. All four axis should be doing something during the first layers. The Numeric "+" key and . Zero the "Z" axis Move Z up 5mm and over so the nozzle is not going to drip NYLON on the table as we prime the tip. Here we Go! Make sure all steppers work. Hit "Cycle Start" and watch to make sure everything is doing what it should.let's make sure all the motors work together..

once we get to the right temp.! Because the Hot-End is designed to handle very high temperatures (450 c).. It's to cold 2.. If not. Very clear and shiny like toothpaste. yet with lots of what looks like bubbles in the stream... This is correct. Caution here.if you waste the whole $3. and worth the effort..00 rod. I'll add instuctables and refer to the 2BEIGH3 as these efforts progress. 1... Now. we need to "Mark the Dimmer Knob" so we know where to set it the next time.. When the NYLON starts to run out in a thin have active pressure in the long tube at this point.. not all thermocouples are the same..don't hold it. Polycarbonate has similar properties along with its translucent qualities. I have ordered both Delrin and Polycarbonate in 3mm rods! Delrin is considered to be the work-horse of machined/tooled plastics... When the NYLON get's to the cold tip. 3.. Remember. it'll shake the long tube a bit. We're not going to print just yet. This is to hot.. Pres the + key and watch the long tubing. A dull stream with a foam like texture. DO NOT Touch the Alum block to see if it's warm. stop worrying about wasting NYLON. At this point. it will look one of three consistencies... it's worth it As the NYLON comes out of the nozzle. If all goes as it should "Welcome yourself to a new world of creativity"..this is a good sign. First... I have been told that Delrin may not be usable as it should loose a binding component in the thermoplast process. you're there.a tap."-" key control the 4th axis Install the output end of the material tube into the top of the hot-end. it's time to clk the Mack3 Cycle Start button. check your wiring and meter settings. You will hear the sound of what sounds like boiling plastic.. you're close to the right may be HOT! Keep increasing the dimmer knob at 4 min intervals at ~5% till the temp reached 200 to 250 c Nylon may start to drip out of the nozzle. When you get a good stream. You can hold the + key for 2 sec and a stream of NYLON should come out the nozzle.. As you approch 250-270C keep tapping the + key. One last safety tip. What we're after is a nice pile of NYLON thread on the table from the nozzle. but a rod is only $2. Very clear. Turn the dimmer up to 15% You should watch the thermocouple temp start to rise. Look at my slic3r config file under gcode and you'll see I send the X axis off . Find a way to add a limit switch that will turn off the heater power at the end of a print. turn on the light dimmer to lowest.50.... Here's how to tell if your temp is right.

And because the threads are oval and optically clear. I will point out a few items of interest to those that may want to print in acrylic. Unacceptable. 2. of course. PLA. For those with existing 3D Print experience: A heated table is not used or required . The material must be modified and bubbles eliminated just prior to the material leaving the tip. otherwise. First. you need to know that round optics. The optics to convert the beam to that fine line…. you’ll see that the initial thread of acrylic from the Hot-End has bubbles. backlash in the pulleys and maybe the neighbors kid crying will modulate the oval reflections of a thread as it is positioned. The file or part is called "Linear Bearing 912" by taulman Update .Printing with Clear Acrylic Below is a video of the 2BEIGH3 printing with 0. If there are enough requests. one that puts out a thin laser line.While the resolution of the 2BEIGH3 is fine for other 3D printing materials. Resolution . the performance of the Printer and Hot-End for Acrylic: 1. 3. become more of a reflective device than an optical collimating device. Remaining threads should be "out" of the BB raceway. I won’t document the 4 orifice Hot-End here as this Instructable is already very large. we get nice straight lines of plastic. And because of this. To understand this.about 8" in one direction. This Hot-End is more complicated to a simple glass or plastic (acrylic) cylinder. or spherical optics have little or no DOF. but even those would be unacceptable to any higher end optical systems.e a thin line. The 4 orifice Hot-End takes care of this and after the first 40-60mm during a print. bubbles cease.. I have designed it in such a way so you can easily get the parts from our present list of vendors.125” Dia Clear Acrylic Material As you might imagine.… This printing is made possible by the taulman 4 orifice Hot-End. This is a good test part to determine if retraction can work in your configuration. the optical properties of acrylic are such that it will amplify any positional anomaly. etc. the end part would not only look visually unappealing. There's a limit switch at that location that turns heater power "OFF". than the already documented taulman NYLON Hot-End. Optical properties – I doubt that you will ever be able to print usable optics with this method. Impurities – read “bubbles” – As you watch the video. Even perfectly round fibers arranged in any configuration do not lend them selves to any type of collimating ability. With ABS and PLA. they will amplify these artifacts. NYLON. You may be able to print refraction gratings. The Linear Bearing noted earlier is up on the Autodesk123D gallery. the material cools so quickly that every step in the stepper motor. slack in the belts. every jar of the print table. i. The best example I can give you is a laser level. then I will write a sub-instructable…(if they have those?). there are several differences in printing this type of material as compared to ABS. With acrylic. 4. The laser is just any laser diode. but it would have tiny dangerous sharp edges and be easily crushed. This is due to a how each thread cools as it is printed. The internal reflections of the laser becomes reflective and transition out in all directions along the cylindrical axis.

ini. will secure the part Requires a Higher temp than ABS 3mm material will shatter on a storage roll 3mm material cost is ~ $0.ini977 bytes 023config.stl160 KB 2BEIGH3test. blue.20 a meter or less than a dime for 12” Now. back to the 2BEIGH3…… 2BEIGH3test.Any masking tape with wax on the back.xls24 KB Step 19Current List of Materials that can be printed on a 2BEIGH3 i . grey….gcode215 KB 023config.taulman977 bytes cost. white.

no one would want to drink from a "used" bottle (according to BW marketing folks).) Add Comment 144 comments 1-40 of 144 next » Jul 4. artists. to the designer of home crafts will now have a wealth of materials and capabilities to make their visions. Anyone from the professional.2kg-cm 1A/phase motor 57SH51-1A i have 2 mm pitch threaded rod so a 1/2 step gives me 2/400= is it okay to use 7. Truth be told.. the reason these are not recycled is that.if you're an environmentalist or just desire to be environmentally responsible.. inventions or just a fix for the water heater. crafts. So.005mm resolution i am a mechanical engineer and know very little about electronics.• » These new materials will hopefully drive an increase in new designs by engineers. 10:21 PMrajarshi says: hi mr taulman does the stepper driver need to be microstepping upto 1/4. 1/8. inventors. i am having driver boards with full/half step only http://www.... And..sunrom. 2012.. how can you use this technology? Here are some of the photos of the current materials with notes: (Please note that Crystal Clear Polycarbonate is incomplete at this time.. designs. The plastic from Billions of discarded water bottles. hobbyists and anyone who needs anything that has been unavailable in the past. please help Reply . the infamous PET. of course.. come to reality.

Especially along with the added precision of the acme rods. Also. I looked at the pdf on the sunrom driver. there is also play in the mechanism that you would have to include. right now i m busy with design of the mechanical structure on solid edge. the motors will make a lot of noise as you mill/print. The pdf mentions "low noise" but there is no capacitive filtering to limit noise. while it will certainly give you speed. 6:43 PM taulman (author) says: rajarshi.005 mm. This board is also rather expensive for a 1-1/2 stepper 2 amps driver bd @ $40. I would suggest that you try to find a 1/4/. An added benefit of the acme rods is that your acceleration can be faster for 3D Printing as compared to a belt system. While the actual 2 mm pitch rod/nut work out to . i shall post if i find it useful Reply 5 Jul 10. This makes printing a bit faster. 11:51 AMrajarshi says: and yes i was experimenting with extruder.1/8 stepper driver as I'm sure you'll be pleased with the added control. Remember to keep the length of the needle short as some plastics cool . This is great news! I am sure you will be pleased with the added control of the drivers at 1/256 stepping. 11:43 AMrajarshi says: hi mr taulman thanx a lot for your advice. one of my friend has advised using printer head used for rubber printing on T shirts. but this needs further investigation. good luck in your build efforts! Reply Jul 10. 2012. will soon post the developements.2kg-cm 1A/phase motor 57SH51-1A is very good for both milling and printing. it is very fine and is giving good result ( i used a unipolar motor and arduino to extrude filaments). thanx again Reply Jul 10.5 Jul 9. I would not suggest a 1/2 step only. 2012.6 kg-cm bipolar at $38US and 4A driver upto 1/256 for $46US and a breakout board for $15US (specially tested with MACH3 and TurboCNC) and ACME rods for free. 1:16 PM taulman (author) says: rejarshi. The spinal anesthesia is a good idea as long as it has an aluminum or SS base. i have consulted a industrial automation engineer and have shown your instructable. The 7.00 US. 2012. In addition. he has promised me with troubleshooting of electronics part. my father ( a surgeon) advised me using a needle used in spinal anesthesia. he was impressed and he is helping by providing me with 12. 2012. it will be low resolution for milling.

I would transition to the low-melting-point metals of Bismuth. however it has no provision for the reduction of contaminants. Hopefully those intrest you as well! As for the Hot-End and it’s temperature. please take a look at the comments and you’ll see what my initial ‘plastics” design requirements are as well as upgrades. i can only think of the problems so better not type them all wold take a long time. 1:24 PM taulman (author) says: The specific PET was derived from discarded water bottles.) Those and a more accurate temperature control are the reason I’ve designed and am testing a PWM temperature control using a PTC thermistor rather than the more dangerous NTC types. I believe a better option would be for someone to . 5:10 PM taulman (author) says: Malainor When you’re done reading through the instructable. that after plastics. The Filabot is a great idea and concept.004” from the nozzle tip. 2012. Zinc and Tin. 2:14 AMampeyro says: what do you mean by "reclaimed pet"? is it made of shreded soda bottles and extruded wit something like the filabot. 2012. you will need to cool the metal to a skin within . I see it as a useful tool for the reclamation of failed prints where the material is a “known”. But i cant i Cant find a reason for impossible :) Reply 5 Jul 2. 2012. for a safe system. Reply Jul 2. The reclaiming is somewhat proprietary. I knew early on. As for solder and quick-turn PCBs. or is it printed from bottle strips? Reply 5 Jul 9. I am interested in hearing your progress! taul Reply Jul 9. (To give you an idea as to how tough that will be.very rapidly and to long a needle will cause inconsistency in the thread. 2012. 3:46 AM Malainor says: Havent read entire posting yet best get some parts first (still in cnc/3d print planning stage still) With over 305c ever thought of Soldering? By that i mean trying to make shapes (perhaps with the help of plastic walls) or even electric pathways with solder (plastic ditches).

taul Reply 5 Jun 4.develop a prototyping board similar to the push-in-wire types that is more SMT friendly. There are folks here that have far more experience. not sure what. Thanks for your incredible and inspiring work. Is there any know problem in this design? Thanks in advance Reply 5 Jun 27. Since space in my garage is a litle limited im considering having the x and y axis by moving the head (dremel) and not the table (it takes a litle less lateral space). Im started to plan my machine. 8:51 PM taulman (author) says: I wish I could help. The only thing I noted was that the weight of the extruder and hot-end was such that the unit seemed to sway back and forth. but I've only had limited experience with the 2BEIGH3 configuration. We should probably reach out to the excellent resource of other DIY CNC/3DP people here on Instructables. 2012.. 2012. 2:55 PMbombix says: Hi. 2:04 PMsemanticdm says: Why does it have to be a parallel port? What's wrong with a USB driver? Reply . I've learned quite a bit just since releasing this instructalbe! Thank you for your comment! Reply May 24. 5:12 PM taulman (author) says: bombix Were you able to get any additional input on this? I was at a customer site this week and they had a unit similar to the "REPRAP" and it moves the extruder and hot-end around as part of one of the X Y axis. Almost like it needed a stabilizing section or rod. Please keep checking back and you should see metal come up in the future! taul Reply Jun 4. 2012. 2012.

2012. Reply 5 Jun 27. I had an exploded drawing of the extruder Hardware for the bearings and Screw. Dan Reply 5 Jun 23. 5:06 PM taulman (author) says: semanticdm There was a comment about a board called the warp9. taul Reply 5 Jun 15. It looks like a great way to incorporate the equivalent of 2 LPT ports via 1 USB port. so I've uploaded a exploded photo with items denoted. Also. There's an inset photo . Take a look and let me know if that doesn't answer your question. but it wasn't enough detail. 10:20 AM taulman (author) says: Dan. please note that the posted BOM Spreadsheet calls out my 120 CFM Fan and 2 lengths of Dryer vent hose. 8:49 AMGilius says: You are extruding nylon but you're not venting the fumes anywhere. 2012. 5:01 PM taulman (author) says: Gillus. I saw a post in one of the comments that addresses standard USB. Reply Jun 10. 2012. 2012. If you do a search and go to their web site.5 Jun 27. This is very dangerous. 2012. 5:57 PM taulman (author) says: semanticdm. I cut the parts out today and they turned out perfect. Reply May 24. you'll see the board and it's published documentation. AS to "venting fumes" Please read through the complete instructable and you will see that venting fumes and odors is mentioned often. 2012. 7:03 PMGadget047 says: Thanks for the R drawings.

As you're on your way in your assembly. I have the extruder parts cut and assembled but am waiting on the bearings right now. 2012. good luck in your efforts. Thanks. you’ll be printing all kinds of parts you’ve designed! And you’re welcome to have the files modified for you. The hot end update is actually timely since I can be working on that while waiting for the bearings. So. 2012. There could be others that will run into . 2012. minus the large gear so you can see the relationship to each part. Reply Jun 17..if you're wondering how strong your parts should be. Gadget047! Before long. I'm sure you'll be looking into building the Hot-End soon. 7:26 PM taulman (author) says: gadget It sound's like you're well on your way in building a modified 2BEIGH3. taul Reply 5 Jun 16.with the assembled hardware. I will check out the videos sometime today along with the new hot end post. Dan Reply 5 Jun 15. 7:35 PM taulman (author) says: That’s great work. Reply 5 Jun 10.. I wanted to let you know that I've uploaded a new video in the 3D Printer section. 11:02 PM taulman (author) says: Dan.. It has three High Speed videos from the material fracture test house that show some test parts being struck by an 8lb sledge hammer. you may want to take a look. 2012. 8:49 AMGadget047 says: Taulman. Again. I have updated the hot-end section with 6 new detailed drawings (With Photos) to help everyone out in their build efforts.

6:12 PM taulman (author) says: tbaildon. On a model as a main propeller. 2012. We are designing a 3D printer/CNC machine and would really like to have it be as versitile as possible. 2012. If there are enough requests. but you didn't say if that was what it needed to be. Also. Do you have a link to any information on your new machine? Reply . great work! Reply 1 Jun 20. Again. Reply Jun 10. 2:56 PM trubbleguy says: Would that material used in your first video create a workable model aircraft propeller /induction fan? Reply 5 Jun 22. 7:30 AM taulman (author) says: The material would be more applicable to the induction fan as it's very light and strong. 11:00 AMtbaildon says: "I won�t document the 4 orifice Hot-End here as this Instructable is already very large. As to your new 3D printer/CNC machine that you are designing. Please! I would very much like to be able to print in acrylic.the same rotation issue. what temperature is needed to print in acrylic? You said your hot end can get up to 450c. 2012. I believe they are usually filled with glass for stability. too. 2012. when they start their build. I would be interested in hearing about it's capability and specifications. then I will write a sub-instructable" This is at least one request. One last quesiton: Do you know if the thermistors that the regular 3D printers have can read and regulate temperatures this high? Thank you for a GREAT Instructable! Reply 5 Jun 15.

Again. Anybody out there have recommendations for a good prebuilt hot end/extruder? :) Reply 5 Jun 16. and we don't have the extruder or hot end designed or made yet. with at least 10" of height.Jun 16. 2012. but we might start out with the basics then build the parts we need for the rest. but the rails we ordered are 20mm. I look forward to hearing more about your efforts. And I would encourage any in the instructable community to offer they're thoughts and suggestions. I haven�t seen anything out there with a build area like we are talking about for a printer. P. :) What I can tell you is that we are aiming for a 12"x12" or maybe 14"x14" build platform. We will document as we go and start loading pictures onto our Facebook pages. and they are HEAVY. but I guarantee it will hold up under just about any torque!) For our version 2 design. 3:40 PM taulman (author) says: . We are still figuring out the electronics. so we had to rethink that part. 8:11 AMtbaildon says: We have just about gotten past the "it's all on paper" level and plan to start the actual building this weekend.S. 2012. We planned to build the frame out of acrylic. 7:23 PM taulman (author) says: That's great! It sounds like you're well on your way to developing a great new machine. We may just buy an extruder assembly. We eventually really want to get into nylon and acrylic. I know that several people have gone the Kickstarter route. Good luck in your assembly efforts! Reply 5 Jun 10. 2012. we plan to create a Kickstarter program to make kits for other people. since we can't print our own until we have a printer. but a 17 or even an 11 for the extruder. (I think we may be over-engineering it a bit. If the project goes anything like we hope. but still strong enough for basic CNC. much less a combo machine. We ordered some linear rails that we found pretty cheaply on eBay. just like the RepRaps. I wish you great success. One of our goals is to build a CNC/3D printer that can make most of its own parts. We�ll keep you posted. Especially when it comes to machines that feature new materials. since we want Nema 23s for the main motors. we hope to go back to lighter rails and the acrylic frame. I'll post here when we have something more than just ideas.

To reduce bubbles. congratulations on moving the 3D Printing technology forward to even more useful materials. Poly carbonates If you’re designing a CNC/3D Printer. and knew a different Hot-End would be a requirement.First. thank you for your comment as it means a great deal! I continue t be overwhelmed by all of the good comments and great suggestions. is that there are the standard 2 orifice. then you’re aware of how important these variables in addition to temperature are in your design. Delrin (as released) 2. this is not a huge issue. then cast. What is meant by a 4 orifice hot-end. but for esthetic usage. Hi Pressure 80 – 120 lbs sqr/mm – PET. It is much easier to purchase extruded 3mm filament. My list: Nylon Xytel Acrylic PET PLA ABS Delrin And the super plastic Polycarbonate! A complete 2BEIGH3 3D Printer system is actually made up of 4 different Hot-Ends and 2 different extruders. 1 in for the material and one out via the nozzle. Cast and Extruded. Nylon was first on the list because of it’s depth of properties when used in conjunction with the fill and perimeter SW values available on a 3D Printer. Not at all acceptable. Heat it up and it expands. 4 orifice Hot-End for Extruded Acrylics and other tightly bonded polymers. Next. For most mechanical uses. I knew this going forward with the design. PLA and other a few other polymers (as released) 2. 3 orifice Hot-End for PET and Nylon 12 3. I already had a list of materials as a requirement. you need to pull a vacuum. Acrylics. Nylon. 4 orifice Hot-End for Cast Acrylics and Poly carbonates Extruders: 1. 2 orifice Hot-End for Nylon. it’s makes for a terrible looking part. This expansion process creates bubbles. There are several problems that need to be overcome when extruding acrylic and other polymers. They are: Hot-Ends 1. Extruded means that the plastic filament has some existing pressure in it’s cold form. ABS. 4. and that is the main problem. the bar value . PLA. When I deigned the 2BEIGH3. There are two basic types of acrylic. Medium pressure 45-60 lbs sqr/mm – ABS. As to the Acrylic Hot-End.

thanks for your comments on the instructable . Also. This makes a good case for an extruder mounted as close as possible to the hot-end as once it’s scratched. thus the 4 orifice. As for temperature. while there are optical ridges associated with the mechanics. acrylic is very brittle and scratching it as it moves through the extruder will lend it to cracking as it transitions the path to the nozzle. the temperature controller will need to be PWM. As for thermistors. If you watch the acrylic video. To expand this.depends on extrusion temperature. this will be included in the specifications because there is a very narrow range. however. The vacuum is pre and post thermoplast. I will defiantly count you in as one who will have an interest in all of these components and look forward to any comments you may have. As to other 3D Printers. I am currently writing specifications on these components so others like yourself will have the best information. I use three 100K thermistors in series on my PWM design. In addition. I really can’t say as none that I know of go higher than ABS requirements. it’s no longer “re-usable”. Again. the 100k variety will work. you’re down to a few hundred ohms. there are no bubbles. at these temperatures.